Vintage Dealer Unearths Rare Gown by Forgotten Designer Zelda Wynn Valdes

Brie Zabierek, curator and founder of the vintage retailer Very Breezy, has made a remarkable discovery at an estate sale: a stunning black satin gown designed by the relatively obscure but influential designer Zelda Wynn Valdes. This gown, featuring a peaked sweetheart neckline and hand-embellished iridescent beads, showcases the craftsmanship of a designer who dressed some of the most iconic performers of the 20th century.

While Zabierek specializes in sourcing vintage pieces from various eras, her recent find is particularly significant. The gown, which belonged to a former showgirl from the 1950s, exemplifies the artistic vision of Wynn Valdes, who created garments for legends like Ella Fitzgerald, Josephine Baker, and Marlene Dietrich. “In my mind, she was this sort of mythical figure because I knew about her and who she dressed, but I had never seen a piece of hers available anywhere,” Zabierek remarked, expressing her excitement over the dress’s exceptional condition and intricate details.

Reviving a Forgotten Legacy

Born in 1905 in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania, Wynn Valdes began her career in fashion working as a seamstress in a boutique in White Plains, New York. In 1948, she opened her own boutique on Broadway in Manhattan, where she quickly gained a reputation for her innovative designs. Her work with high-profile clients, including the wedding attire for Nat King Cole and Maria Ellington, propelled her into the spotlight.

Wynn Valdes was known for her daring designs that challenged conventional norms. She employed creative techniques to craft garments that hugged the body in flattering ways, producing backless and strapless silhouettes long before they became mainstream. Her collaborations with stars not only defined their public personas but also contributed to their rise to fame.

Throughout her career, Wynn Valdes maintained a relationship with Hugh Hefner, contributing to the creation of iconic Playboy bunny costumes and hosting fashion shows at the Playboy Club. She was also instrumental in establishing the National Association of Fashion and Accessories Designers in 1949, championing Black female designers at a time when their contributions were often overlooked.

Modern Recognition and Impact

Despite her significant contributions, Wynn Valdes’s name has faded from the fashion narrative. However, recent efforts by stylists have aimed to revive her legacy. Noteworthy moments occurred at the 2025 Golden Globe Awards when stylist Law Roach dressed Zendaya in a gown inspired by a Wynn Valdes design. Later in the year, at the Met Gala, Gigi Hadid emulated a dress originally worn by Josephine Baker, showcasing Wynn Valdes’s enduring influence.

The resurgence of interest in vintage fashion has sparked a conversation about the importance of recognizing lesser-known designers like Wynn Valdes. Zabierek emphasizes this point, stating, “It’s great that vintage and archival fashion is having such a moment in the industry. Working in vintage, I’m more interested in taking the time to educate people on why they should care about this smaller label that they’ve never heard of.”

Currently, Zabierek has decided to keep the gown for her collection, believing it deserves a special home. The dress represents not only a piece of fashion history but also a testament to the creativity and talent of a designer who shaped the cultural landscape, even if her name is not widely recognized today.

As fashion continues to evolve, the efforts to acknowledge and celebrate the contributions of pioneering figures like Zelda Wynn Valdes ensure that their legacies remain alive and appreciated in the modern world.