Luxury Water Boom: Restaurants Cashing in on Pricy Bottles

Consumers are now willing to pay up to $95 for bottled water, as high-end restaurants roll out elaborate water menus akin to wine lists. This trend, reported by The Wall Street Journal, reflects a growing market for premium bottled waters that ranges from $11 to nearly $100 a bottle. Diners in locations such as Los Angeles and Spain are increasingly treating water with the same care they would apply to fine wines, focusing on factors like mineral content and flavor profiles.

Some establishments have embraced this new norm with full water menus. For example, the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia serves Berg water, sourced from a 15,000-year-old iceberg off the coast of Newfoundland, Canada, which is marketed for its unique flavor reminiscent of “ancient packed snow and air.” Meanwhile, Gwen in Los Angeles has reported annual water sales reaching up to $100,000. Martin Riese, the restaurant’s water sommelier, emphasizes the importance of serving water without ice or lemon to preserve its taste.

Market Expansion and Consumer Trends

The global premium bottled water market is currently valued at over $36 billion and is projected to grow at a rate of approximately 7% annually. Riese, who has trained hundreds of water sommeliers globally since 2006, argues that it is logical to treat various types of water with the same respect afforded to spirits. “No one would think it’s strange if you served different types of vodka at a bar, so why should it be any different for water?” he stated.

Anastasia Chovan, a certified water sommelier based in Seattle, attributes the shift towards premium water options to a heightened focus on health and wellness. As younger consumers, particularly members of Generation Z, become more health conscious, they are increasingly discerning about their beverage choices. Chovan explains that the flavor of water is influenced by its mineral content, with elements like magnesium and potassium playing a crucial role in taste and mouthfeel.

Criticism and Cultural Commentary

Despite the enthusiasm from some, the trend has generated playful skepticism online. Discussions in forums such as Reddit’s r/FoodLosAngeles reflect a mix of humor and disbelief. Comments range from jokes about bringing a Brita filter to restaurants for decanting to critiques of the luxury water experience. One user quipped, “Wait till they pull out the air menu and start charging per breath,” while another remarked on the surprisingly good taste of the filtered tap water served at Gwen.

Supporters of the trend argue that it serves a purpose beyond mere indulgence. They claim it aims to elevate the appreciation of water, highlighting its value in the culinary experience. As restaurants continue to innovate in their beverage offerings, the fine water trend shows no signs of slowing down, reinforcing the idea that even the simplest of substances can be marketed as a luxury item.