How Jessie Buckley’s Costumes Bring Emotion to ‘Hamnet’

The film adaptation of Maggie O’Farrell’s novel, “Hamnet,” features striking costume designs that reflect the emotional journey of its characters. Costume designer Malgosia Turzanska drew inspiration from visceral imagery to shape the visual narrative of Jessie Buckley‘s character, Agnes. The film, directed by Chloe Zhao, explores the profound grief of William Shakespeare (played by Paul Mescal) and Agnes following the death of their 11-year-old son, Hamnet.

Turzanska describes her vision for Agnes’s wardrobe, stating, “The first image in my head was a giant beating heart muscle, throbbing and pulsing with blood.” The predominant color throughout the film is red, symbolizing the emotional intensity surrounding Agnes. The story unfolds as the couple navigates their loss, eventually inspiring Shakespeare to write “Hamlet.”

Costume Evolution Reflects Character Transformation

Audiences first encounter Agnes in vibrant red bark cloth while she is in the woods, representing her youthful vitality. As her life changes, the color palette shifts. Turzanska explains, “When she settles down with William Shakespeare and has children, the red becomes more muted.” This transformation signifies Agnes’s evolving identity as she becomes increasingly focused on her family.

The turning point occurs with Hamnet’s tragic death due to the plague. Turzanska notes that Agnes’s attire darkens, illustrating her profound sorrow. When Shakespeare must leave for London, the visual contrast in their costumes emphasizes their emotional distance. Agnes is depicted in a brown smock with a gray bodice, while Shakespeare dons more elaborate layers and leathers.

One poignant moment captures Agnes rising from the table, seemingly without a skirt. Turzanska intended this to convey that despite her grief, Agnes is beginning to reclaim her sense of self. “She still has something to live for,” Turzanska reflects, indicating Agnes’s ongoing responsibilities as a mother.

Symbolism in Color and Texture

Throughout the film, Turzanska employs varying shades of red to illustrate Agnes’s emotional state. At one point, she wears a skirt in a prune color, which Turzanska likens to “a dried scab.” This choice underscores the rawness of Agnes’s grief.

In the film’s climax, Agnes visits the Globe Theater to see her husband’s play. Here, she wears a dress reminiscent of one from her pregnancy, signaling a reconnection with her former self. “She does end on a red, but it’s no longer that youthful,” Turzanska explains, highlighting her character’s growth amidst tragedy.

Shakespeare’s costumes also deviate from traditional portrayals of the Bard. Turzanska comments on the freedom this provided her as a designer. She incorporates Tudor elements into his wardrobe, using the pinking and slashing of fabrics to express his emotional turmoil. As the film progresses, the slashes on his doublet grow larger, paralleling his grief after Hamnet’s passing.

For the ghostly representation of Shakespeare, Turzanska took inspiration from artistic interpretations throughout history. A sculpture of cracked clay resonated with her vision. She states, “It is revealing him to be raw and open.” This innovative approach deviates from the conventional use of a simple sheet, instead reflecting the burial customs of the time.

The costumes in “Hamnet” serve as a powerful narrative device, telling the story of love, loss, and resilience through color and texture. As Turzanska notes, the design reflects not just the characters’ journeys but the universal themes of human experience, making it a poignant addition to the film.