France Suspends Shein Access Amid Controversy on Childlike Dolls

The French government has initiated a procedure to suspend access to the online platform of fast-fashion retailer Shein, following a controversy surrounding the listing of sex dolls resembling children. This decision, announced on March 15, 2024, coincided with the opening of Shein’s first permanent store in Paris, located within the iconic BHV Marais department store.

A statement from the French Ministry of Finance indicated that Shein must demonstrate compliance with French laws regarding its content. The ministry has not clarified whether this suspension will affect the physical store, nor has it provided detailed reasons for the decision. A progress report is expected within the next 48 hours.

As crowds gathered for the store opening, a small group of protesters voiced their concerns, holding signs against Shein and briefly disrupting the event before being escorted away by security. In response to the accusations, Shein has committed to collaborating with French authorities to address any issues. The company stated, “We are seeking dialogue with the authorities and government bodies on this issue.”

French authorities possess the power to mandate the removal of illegal content within 24 hours, including child pornography. Failure to comply could result in internet service providers being instructed to block access to the site. As of the announcement, access to Shein’s French website remained unaffected.

Frédéric Merlin, president of the Société des Grands Magasins, the owner of BHV, expressed support for the government’s actions, noting that Shein had already opted to suspend its marketplace. He stated, “I am satisfied with this decision and I hope that, in the end, we will be able to stop selling illicit products on these marketplaces.”

Despite the backlash, the opening attracted numerous shoppers. Ticia Ones, a frequent Shein customer, explained that her main motivation for visiting the new store was the opportunity to physically inspect items before purchasing. “We can see what we order, touch the items, it’s a good thing,” she noted, highlighting the appeal of Shein’s low prices despite the surrounding controversy.

Environmental and ethical issues have also marred Shein’s reputation. Founded in China in 2012 and now based in Singapore, the company has faced allegations regarding its supply chains, particularly concerning forced labor linked to the Xinjiang region. Critics argue that the retailer’s practices contribute to significant human rights abuses.

Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, chief operating officer of Société des Grands Magasins, defended Shein, stating that the brand has made substantial improvements in its production methods. “Today, it’s a brand that produces under much more legitimate conditions,” he said, asserting that adherence to French and European regulations has been ensured.

The rise of fast fashion, characterized by rapid turnover and low prices, has significant environmental and social costs. The United Nations estimates that the textile industry accounts for nearly 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. France has begun to implement measures aimed at curbing the influence of fast-fashion companies, with a draft law focused on consumer awareness campaigns, advertising restrictions, and stricter waste management rules.

Thibaut Ledunois, director of entrepreneurship and innovation at the French federation of women’s ready-to-wear, criticized Shein’s presence in France, calling it a “black day for our industry.” He stated, “Shein is developing a beautiful showcase in our country, justifying all the bad, and sad and horrible business that they develop all around the world.”

As this situation continues to unfold, the implications for both Shein and the French retail landscape remain significant. The balance between consumer demand for low-cost fashion and the need for ethical practices in the industry is becoming increasingly complex.